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Running Gear
- Brakes
- Rob Bell offers up
the options here,
from OE to AP.
- Rob tells us why
big is not always best in
this article.
- Andy 'Scarlet
Fever' Phillips offers his thoughts on the braking effect here.
- And also from Rob,
an article
about brake fade.
- Erik covers the
pad and disc options on his site here.
- to cut down on
brake servo movement, Erik fitted this
bracket.
- Rob Bell also
covers brake servo movement on his web site here.
- Erik shows how to
fit Mike Satur's 280mm conversion kit here.
- TIP
!! when checking your rear brake
pads for wear, check the inside pad, this wears at a greater rate than
the outer pad. The OE inner pad also has a metal strip attached to it
that rubs on the brake disc emitting a squeal when the pads are low.
- Jerry Herbert from
the SWMGF'rs
has another tip regarding rear
brake caliper seizure (you need to be a SWMGF member to view the
thread).
- Brake
discs
- CJJ shows
us how he removed the disc
retaining screws that nearly always snap over on the MG-Rover.org forum.
- Handbrake
- A lot of people
ask how to adjust the handbrake, refer to the handbrake
section on this page.
- Wheels
and tyres
- Locking
wheel nuts
- There has been a
spate of the McGard type locking wheel nuts failing. A shorter lock
nut, possibly having a 24212 part number, has been fitted for whatever
reason, this 'bottoms out' on the stud, over a few weeks it effectively
pushes the end of the lock nut off, have a look at this
post on the MG-Rover.org forum
which shows a failed lock nut in the lower picture. I was told by the
supplier of a set that failed on my TF that the McGard catalogue gave
the incorrect number for the F/TF.
For the record, the correct information for the McGard
locking wheel nuts is as follows;
- McGard part
number - 82518
- MGR part
number - XPT000175ACC
- McGard part
number - 24157 can also be fitted, but these lack the anti tamper
sleeve that the 82518 nuts have. There is no MGR part number for these.
The MG-Rover.org
online shop sells these for
£19.99 (May 2007), but ignore the picture of them, its the
wrong one.
This has been discussed in depth in this
thread on the MG-Rover.org forum.
- Wheel
bearings
- Dieter has this
page showing how to replace the
rear wheel bearing.
- Suspension
- Andy Phillips
covers the hydragas design used on the F here
on MG-Rover.org.
- Dieter has this
page on how to build your own
hydragas pump - TAKE CARE
!!!
- Erik lists some
suspension options
on his English Fantasy web site.
- the poly bush
upgrade for the F is covered on Erik's site here.
- Tony Thompson
covers fitting of poly bushes on his site here.
- a common issue
that gets over looked is the grease nipple on each of the front upper
suspension arms. Mark Leonard took a photo identifying its location on
the MG-Rover.org
forum, its at the end of the rusty bent screwdriver !!.
- Dieter has a page
on a shock absorber upgrade for the MGF
here.
- Dieter even covers
the various hydragas pumps available here.
- Looking for a
garage that can pump up your hydragas suspension ?, then try The
Hydragas Register.
- Jerry Herbert, 'MG
TF nut', a member on the SWMGF boards,
reminds us to
grease our nipples!!!, and a
follow up thread showing a
modification to the nipple for
better access with the grease gun (you need to be a SWMGF member to
view the treads).
- Debs has put this
thread together on the MGF
Register forum, listing the standard suspension settings and Sport Pack
1 (SP1) suspension settings for a TF. The same data is tabulated below.
- Suspension
settings - TF
|
Suspension
element |
Standard
suspension |
Sports
suspension |
|
Front Wheel Alignment - Toe Out per side |
0 degrees +/- 6 minutes
0 degrees +/- 0.1 degrees
0 mm +/- 0.665 mm (15" rims)
0 mm +/- 0.709 mm (16" rims) |
0 degrees +/-
6 mins
0 degrees +/- 0.1 degs
|
|
Front Wheel Camber - Negative |
0 degrees 30 mins +/- 30 mins
0.5 degrees +/- 0.5 degrees
3.315 mm +/- 0.315 mm |
0 degrees +/-
05 mins
0 degrees +/- 0.08 degs
|
|
Front Wheel Castor - Positive |
4 degrees 50 mins +/- 1 degree
4.83 degrees +/- 1 degree
29.98 mm +/- 6.71 mm
|
5 degrees 28
mins +/- 1 deg
5.47 degrees +/- 1 degree
|
|
King Pin Inclination |
11 degrees 40 minutes
11.71 degrees
78.71mm |
11 degs 40
minutes
11.67 degs +/-1 deg
|
|
Rear Wheel Alignment - Toe In per side |
0 degrees 15 min =/- 6 mins
0.25 degrees +/- 0.1 degree
1.662 mm +/- 0.67 mm (15" rims)
1.772 mm +/- 0.71 mm (16" rims) |
0 degrees 30
mins =/- 6 mins
0.5 degrees +/- 0.1 deg
|
|
Rear Wheel Camber - Negative |
1 degree +/- 30 mins
1 degree +/- 0.5 degree
6.71 mm +/- 0.315 mm |
1 degree 33
mins +/- 30 mins
1.55 degrees + / - 0.5 degree
|
- Ride
height - MGF
- Paul at DotComoff
has
this article on how to check the
ride height on an MGF
- Andy Phillips
discusses ride height and hydragas
here on MG-Rover.org
- Greg Hiltons MGF
FAQ has a section on ride height here.
- Broon shows
his method for pumping up the
hydragas system on an F.
- Gear
selection mechanism
- Dieter has a
repair for a broken gear selector ball joint here.
- Tony Thompson has
a DIY fix for a split rear gear selector gaiter
here.
- Fitting the Mike
Satur Slick Shift kit can be found on Tony Thompson's site here,
and on Erik's site here.
- Stepspeed
/ Steptronic / CVT gearbox
- Here is a PDF
file giving a full description
of the CVT gear box works. This PDF
file charts how the gearbox
works in driving situations.
Thanks to TipperMG who posted this
thread on the MG-Rover.org forum
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